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 Rank: Beyond The Box Groups: Member
Joined: 9/13/2011 Posts: 78 Points: 234 Location: Ashford, Wicklow
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Hi all,
Bit of a departure for me as I'm a warbird man usually, but I've spotted some superb fantasy figurines I want to have a pop at some time, but humbrol and citadel paints aren't going to cut the mustard. From what I can make out on t'interweb I should probably try Vallejo or Andrea paints. Any pointers/opinions accepted.
Andy
How do you eat an elephant.... ....start at one end and keep chewing.
On the bench: 1/24 Airfix Bf109 E OOB 1/24 Trumpeter Hurricane IIc, most definitely not OOB.
In the wings: Trumpeter Hurricane MkI, BoB in flight versus Airfix B2 Stuka, 1/24 dogfight double.
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 Rank: Administration Groups: Moderators
Joined: 9/7/2008 Posts: 920 Points: 1,972 Location: Co. Limerick
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It's not as easy as it might seem. My guess: you can use Humbrol - on the brush - for the base colours and then use oils for the shading and following layers. I think that someone from IMSS IRL would be of more help.
Filip
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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Vallejo is popular with figures painters especially with the guys into Warhammer 40K and Warhammer Fantasy. There is a wide color range available from their Model Color set but they also do a Game Color set for fantasy and sci-fi figures. If you do go with Vallejo just be sure to prime the figures first as Vallejo won't adhere to bare plastic. If you're looking for tips on painting fantasy figures you might find some information from the IMSS club. Alternatively you can look on the Games Workshop site. They have a lot of articles relating to their own products, both plastic and paint, but you can still learn a thing or two I'm sure. Or, you can search online for a few forums relating to Warhammer and find out some stuff their. I'd recommend some other fantasy ranges as well if I knew any but I've only first hand experience with Games Workshop and with Vallejo paints.
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 Rank: Beyond The Box Groups: Member
Joined: 9/13/2011 Posts: 78 Points: 234 Location: Ashford, Wicklow
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Thanks guys. Problem I've found with Humbrol (enamels anyway) is that they don't give a particularly flat finish and aren't very easy to blend together in layers without the faces looking like Jodie Marsh on a bad makeup day.
I will have a pop over to the IMSS site to see what they have.
Just I've seen a Luis Royo figure which is frankly superb, and I want to practice on something simpler before I commit to paying a lot of cash for it.
Andy
How do you eat an elephant.... ....start at one end and keep chewing.
On the bench: 1/24 Airfix Bf109 E OOB 1/24 Trumpeter Hurricane IIc, most definitely not OOB.
In the wings: Trumpeter Hurricane MkI, BoB in flight versus Airfix B2 Stuka, 1/24 dogfight double.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 2/9/2011 Posts: 495 Points: 1,400 Location: Naas
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Of course, you could do a figure of Jodie Marsh and then the paints wouldn't matter! ;) J. On the bench - Revell 1:72 F-16B
Completed builds Click here
Coming attractions - Eduard 1:48 Bf 110 G-4 Academy 1:72 F-22a Raptor Tamiya 1:35 T-55a Moebius 1:128 Seaview
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 Rank: Beyond The Box Groups: Member
Joined: 9/13/2011 Posts: 78 Points: 234 Location: Ashford, Wicklow
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 Ugh. Have to do it blindfold and bring out at halloween Too much work there. Although she's probably a good choice for plastic kits considering the amount already on the original.....
How do you eat an elephant.... ....start at one end and keep chewing. On the bench: 1/24 Airfix Bf109 E OOB 1/24 Trumpeter Hurricane IIc, most definitely not OOB. In the wings: Trumpeter Hurricane MkI, BoB in flight versus Airfix B2 Stuka, 1/24 dogfight double.
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 Rank: Administration Groups: Moderators
Joined: 9/7/2008 Posts: 920 Points: 1,972 Location: Co. Limerick
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Humbrols would be for base only - to get the basic shade, so for flesh you can use white, green is obviously light green and so on. If you use oils on top of tha Humbrols the you'd get all the shades, different colour shifts and so on. Oils are transparent and you can mess with them as long as you wish. And I would always use matt varnish /or gloss or as needed/ once you're done as you will never get nice matt finish when layering different paints.
Filip
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 Rank: Beyond The Box Groups: Member
Joined: 9/13/2011 Posts: 78 Points: 234 Location: Ashford, Wicklow
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Thanks Filip. I hadn't considered oils. I think I'll just have to buy one and try a few things.
How do you eat an elephant.... ....start at one end and keep chewing.
On the bench: 1/24 Airfix Bf109 E OOB 1/24 Trumpeter Hurricane IIc, most definitely not OOB.
In the wings: Trumpeter Hurricane MkI, BoB in flight versus Airfix B2 Stuka, 1/24 dogfight double.
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 Rank: Administration Groups: Moderators
Joined: 9/7/2008 Posts: 920 Points: 1,972 Location: Co. Limerick
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Only a quick link to a bit wordy how to: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/basics/my_oils.htm ...and link to FSM archive, they charge 4bucks for downloading, but their articles are, usually very good and I think those few bobs are justifiable in this instance: http://www.finescale.com/en/How%20To/FSM%20Direct/2009/10/Download%20Articles%20Today.aspx
Filip
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 Rank: Beyond The Box Groups: Member
Joined: 9/13/2011 Posts: 78 Points: 234 Location: Ashford, Wicklow
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Thanks for the links Filip, I'll give them a look.
How do you eat an elephant.... ....start at one end and keep chewing.
On the bench: 1/24 Airfix Bf109 E OOB 1/24 Trumpeter Hurricane IIc, most definitely not OOB.
In the wings: Trumpeter Hurricane MkI, BoB in flight versus Airfix B2 Stuka, 1/24 dogfight double.
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Rank: Member Groups: Member
Joined: 4/1/2012 Posts: 12 Points: 36 Location: Donegal/Sweden
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AndyB wrote:... but humbrol and citadel paints aren't going to cut the mustard. Properly stirred and thinned, both these paints can be used just as effectively as Vallejo and Andrea. A lot of figure painters have jumped on the Vallejo band wagen, regardless of what methods they used before. Yes it is a quality paint and has many advantages over Humbrols/oils regarding drying times, but has the major disadvantage for the same reason, where you cannot stipple and blend colours. Effectively it means a different painting method, using glazes instead. Citadel is also a quality paint and maybe has not the variety of colours that vallejo has, but with a basic selection and some mixing, this shouldn´t be a problem. Vallejo may win the battle if you want all your shades readily available, but to buy all these colours, it will get quite expensive. So if you are not prepared to buy the whole range or the range that you need, you need to learn to mix your own shades (highlights/shadows) and you have just lost one of the main reasons Vallejo has beome so popular. I have seen too many fantastic figures painted with both Humbrols and Citadel colours to say they "dont cut the mustard". My post is not just to be argumentative, but voice an opinion on the subject. At the end of the day, its always your own choice, but in my opinion there are a lot of myths going around regarding this.
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Rank: Member Groups: Member
Joined: 4/1/2012 Posts: 12 Points: 36 Location: Donegal/Sweden
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AndyB wrote: Problem I've found with Humbrol (enamels anyway) is that they don't give a particularly flat finish and aren't very easy to blend together in layers without the faces looking like Jodie Marsh on a bad makeup day.
Humrols need to be stirred a lot .... when you think you´ve stirred them enough ... stir them some more. I bought a little battery opertaed stirrer from Trumpeter ... works great for this. As you say, they are not really suitable for painting in layers, as the thinner will lift all previous coats, if they have not cured properly, and give the "Jodie Marsh" effect. This is a disadvantage, if you want to paint a face in one sitting. Mark Bannerman who has many figure articles on Missing Links (Click here) says "Give yourself fifteen minutes a day for each of the following steps over a course of two weeks" when using oil paints .... and you´ll need to consider something similar when using Humbrols. I know 2 weeks seams like a long time, but in reality you could paint a few figures in this time (or different areas), so over a period of time the production rate could be considered as similar. The advantage of this is that the 15 minutes may be intense but you can give full focus and end up with a better paint job. Humbrols/oils are more forgiving, where you can wipe away anything you are not happy with and do it again and again. Using vallejo or any other acrylic brand does not really give you this possibility. It all comes down to what works best for you and what is available .... and your own preferences.
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 Rank: Beyond The Box Groups: Member
Joined: 9/13/2011 Posts: 78 Points: 234 Location: Ashford, Wicklow
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Thanks for the info. In truth I've already discovered that I have to mix the Vallejo to get the right shade, and I'm reasonably happy with the results. Plumped for Windsor and Newton oils/acrylics as well, due to availability in local art shop.
However point taken. Seems to be a lot of misinfomation about this out there, and I'm using citadel elsewhere anyway. Try it and see I guess.
How do you eat an elephant.... ....start at one end and keep chewing.
On the bench: 1/24 Airfix Bf109 E OOB 1/24 Trumpeter Hurricane IIc, most definitely not OOB.
In the wings: Trumpeter Hurricane MkI, BoB in flight versus Airfix B2 Stuka, 1/24 dogfight double.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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Games Workshop have actually just released 145 new Citadel paints so they'd be worth checking out I'm sure.
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