Some of my land based stuff.

please tell us how you do a scale gloss finish?!

I also thought the car was real!

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If you tell people where to go, but not how to get there, you'll be amazed at the results. George S. Patton

This space is for rent.
(Sshhh! Don't tell the Revenue Commissioners, the IMF or the Dept of Finance, or they'll tax my stash!)

Thanks all. I usually top coat mine with a clear such as Tamiya with the Norfolk Police car. I used Krylon high gloss white as the base coat. The blue car in the last photo was wet sanded and polished with Nufinish car polish.

Thanks.The police cars were rare here until a few years ago. So, when they became popular, I bought many of them just in case they stopped making them, which they did with the unfinished Fords you see on the table.

Liam, Yes your right paint the body before you put the windows in. I dont know anything about the model but if the bonnet is seperate from the body just make sure you put the same amount of coats on it as you do the body. Otherwise you get a definate colour change, you can see it in a couple of my cars.

Rubbing compound is a fine abrasive that comes in a liquid or creamy wax format. Basically what I would do is once the paint has completely cured give the whole body a sand with the finest paper you have, basically make the coat of paint look dull and flat all over. Then using a soft cloth like a cotton tshirt, take a small amount of compound and rub it into the body. BE VERY CAREFUL (sorry for shouting but needed to get your attention again) remember the compound is a very fine abrasive and "cuts" the paint and brings the shine back out in the paint BUT rub to much you will be back to your primer and you may aswell dip the body and start again. Not sure what else to tell you, you will get the compound in the likes of Halfords also there is a model one done by Tamiya in 3 different grades. What colour will the car be, if its a metallic colour you will need to give the body a clear coat before sanding and using rubbing compound. You cant apply compound to a metallic paint it just wont work out.

Any other questions just give me a shout. I know a bit about building the cars (just not very good at doing it!)

21 01 09
Some painting progress shots:






Just to give you an idea of where it's at.

Liam

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Mesa called Jar-Jar Binks. Mesa your humble servant.
I don't know. Mesa day startin pretty okee-day with a brisky morning munchy, then BOOM! Mesa gettin' very very scared!


I am the Rules Police. It's better than being the Thought Police.

Peek is like a paste that comes in a tube about the size of a toothpaste tube. It's used for polishing / cleaning metals, fibreglass and ceramics. I use it to polish up the palstic of my kits after a lot of sanding. It worked oj=k with the car,but tended to remove the paint around the sharp raised edges of the fins and fenders, which it would normally do, so I'll not use it on painted surfaces. It DID polish the remainder of the paint ok tho'. Have since repainted the car and it does seem as if it gets shinier with each coat, but I reckon the painting bit of the body work is now done.

You should be able to get it in your local hardware store.

Liam

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Mesa called Jar-Jar Binks. Mesa your humble servant.
I don't know. Mesa day startin pretty okee-day with a brisky morning munchy, then BOOM! Mesa gettin' very very scared!


I am the Rules Police. It's better than being the Thought Police.

Liam, Yes with any compound you will find that will happen to the high areas. A tip to avoid that problem would be place a small amount of masking tape on the area you dont want to be touched and it will save those heart aches. Remember rubbing compound is an abrasive think of it like very fine sand paper. Plus I would only use rubbing compound on the top coat of paint. Its a pointless excersise otherwise as you will just cover the smooth surface you worked hard on with another coat of paint which may not come out so smooth (ie Orange peel). Just on this Peek stuff I know nothing about it but there are model products out there that do a good job also have a look at some of the motor products like Meguires (I think thats how you spell it, expensive but a bottle would last a life time!)

My process is

1) Sand whole body (seam lines and that) and filler anything that needs it and resand.
2) Primer with grey primer (I find it easier to see any missed seam lines or mistakes in filler with grey primer)
3) Optional but depending on top coat I may use a white primer. Which ever is your final coat of primer give it a light sanding with 1200 grit wet and dry.
4) Start the colour coats, 3 mist coats first being very very light barely any paint hitting the body. By the end of the 3rd coat the whole body should be covered but still very flat.
5) Now for the wet coats, 2 coats should be more then enough.
6) Once totally cured and dry, now sand the top coat starting at 1200 and going up to 2000 if you have it. Oh an wet sand, its very important to do this. When finished you should have a uniform flat coat of paint.
7) Now use your prefered rubbing compound, working slowly and in small areas always checking your work but this should bring out a nice glass smooth coat.

If all done correctly the need for a clear gloss coat should be minimal unless its a racing car and you want to seal the decals. One other point after each colour coat check your work if an area needs sanding because of dirt do it then and repaint if necessary.

Fise, I agree with you on the polish bit it doesnt seem necessary and is just adding extra work for no end product. But that is just my opinion.