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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 11/29/2010 Posts: 352 Points: 1,071 Location: Kildare
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This is the Hobbyboss Yong Shi Chinese jeep. The kit itself is great with excellent details mainly on the interior. It comes with one fret of PE for the door baskets, light & engine grills and wheel brake disks! The precision of the moldings is superb to the extent that dry fitting of some of the parts on the axels & chassis meant they were done! It built up very nice and easy.....then I made a mess of it. Decided to go with an overall white UN scheme. Humbrols enamels wern't up to the job after doing just one part so went for a spray can. What a mess! After repeated attempts and cleaning I had a paint job that while not great I just couldn't try any more... I had also gor a spray can of satin clear, so used this before the decals and frosted all the windows! WTF! It's meant to be clear.... Had enough at that stage so just put on the decals and wheels and called it done!   
Cheers Sean
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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I think the white coat looks rather good actually and white is terribly difficult to get right. As for the windows, might it be possible to replace them with clear acrylic sheet from an arts & craft store?
Overall it's a great looking jeep in my opinion.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 2/9/2011 Posts: 496 Points: 1,403 Location: Naas
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That's annoying! It seems like a few kits here have been ruined by paint recently. For the windows, how abotu adding a couple of bullet holes and say that it was shot at and the safety glass is now 'shattered' but intact ( if you know what I mean? ). It looks excellent though, just a shame you had problems at the end... J. On the bench - Revell 1:72 F-16B
Completed builds Click here
Coming attractions - Eduard 1:48 Bf 110 G-4 Academy 1:72 F-22a Raptor Tamiya 1:35 T-55a Moebius 1:128 Seaview
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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By the way, I may have some 35th scale PLA figures lying around if you'd like them. They're from a Dragon kit, PLA Hong Kong Expeditionary or some such but it has a few PLA rifles in it as well, I'd just need to root around for them.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 11/29/2010 Posts: 352 Points: 1,071 Location: Kildare
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Thanks Guys I had considered replacing the windscreen with clear plastic but had already attached the wipers, rear-view mirror and sun-shields...might do even more damage: but then I can't really make it any worse. The bullet holes might be an idea.... Figures? Not something I planned on, but maybe...let me get back to you on that offer Alcatraz, thanks
Cheers Sean
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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No problem, even if you just wanted the guns from the set to busy up the seats. There's a couple of those bullpup rifles the PLA uses and a machine gun I think.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 11/29/2010 Posts: 352 Points: 1,071 Location: Kildare
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That sounds like a plan Alcatraz thanks. I'll take you up on the offer. How much for them? Not sure if I'm going to make it to next Dublin meet on Saturday yet though.
Cheers Sean
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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You can have them for free, a few are partially assembled with a little paint on (Vallejo, easy to remove or paint over). The weapons are all on the sprue I think. I can give them to you whenever, this meeting, December or if you're passing through the city centre anytime soon.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 11/29/2010 Posts: 352 Points: 1,071 Location: Kildare
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Thanks, I'll be in touch. Still hoping to make Saturday
Cheers Sean
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 Rank: Can't see the modelling bench Groups: Member
Joined: 9/7/2008 Posts: 276 Points: -2,348 Location: Shannon, Co.Clare, Ireland
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09 11 2011 Why not dirty it up a wee bit and streak the wind-shield with dirty browns etc... have you tried using isopropyale alcohol to remove the glazing? Did you Klear the windshield before you assembled it? Dip a cotton bud in some iso and give it a couple of swipes. Alternatively, if you did Klear the glass first, get some micro-mesh pads and sand it...start with some of the finer grades and just gradually work your up to the absolute finest grade. Then Klear it and let it cure. Liam
Mesa called Jar-Jar Binks. Mesa your humble servant. I don't know. Mesa day startin pretty okee-day with a brisky morning munchy, then BOOM! Mesa gettin' very very scared!  I am the Rules Police. It's better than being the Thought Police.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 11/29/2010 Posts: 352 Points: 1,071 Location: Kildare
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Is that Iso-stuff like nail polish remover?
Cheers Sean
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 Rank: Can't see the modelling bench Groups: Member
Joined: 9/7/2008 Posts: 276 Points: -2,348 Location: Shannon, Co.Clare, Ireland
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35th-scale wrote:Is that Iso-stuff like nail polish remover? It's similar I think. I also mis-spelt it...should be Isopropyl Alocohol. You used to get it in a small bottle with video-tape cleaning kits for the 'old' vhs systems and should also be with the cleaning kits for cds. Usually came in a a small red bottle and I remember buying them from Xtra-vision. I am sure you can get them for cleaning dvd players/dics as well from places like B and Q and Homebased, Curry's and maybe even Tesco's or Dunnes. Or you can get a 500ml bottle from a pharamacy for less than a tenner. It'll last you for ever. This is an option IF you put Klear on the windshield before you sprayed the Satin finish Try a little on a cotton bud first. If you didn't put Klear on first, the more I think of it, the more I think sanding would be the best option using the micro-mesh pads. (or even different grade of regular sandpaper starting around 400 grit and working up to the lightest grade you can but, like 1200 - 1600 or lighter). Kinda the same process as if you were removing a seam from a canopy. Don't worry about damage to the plastic as each subsequent finer grade of pad you use will eventually work the clear plastic clear again. Then you brush some Johnsons Klear over it and it sould come clear again. If it doesn't completely remove the 'fog', I'd got the route suggested earlier and dirty the vehiclel up a little, bit of dust and grime on the body work and windshield. You could have a grime pattern on the windshield to represent use of the wipers! It'll give the vehicle some life and realism and hide anything you can't completely remove or fix. Liam
Mesa called Jar-Jar Binks. Mesa your humble servant. I don't know. Mesa day startin pretty okee-day with a brisky morning munchy, then BOOM! Mesa gettin' very very scared!  I am the Rules Police. It's better than being the Thought Police.
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 Rank: Administration Groups: Administration
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Joined: 5/22/2008 Posts: 340 Points: 1,296 Location: in front of the computer
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35th-scale wrote:Is that Iso-stuff like nail polish remover? No it's not. There are now different types of nail polish remover on sale but generally they are acetone based, definitely something I would keep well away from clear parts. IPA (isopropanol alcohol) is basically surgical spirit, similar in strength to methylated spirits. Next in strength (based on how it will melt plastic) is white spirit, then I would put Nail varnish remover, then Cellulose thinner. Nail varnish remover has a place on my modelling bench -useful stuff in many ways, especially with filler- but I would keep it well away from clear parts. I would follow Liam's suggestion and try IPA on the clear parts, if that doesn't work then the best thing to do is buy a nail buffer from the supermarket and use that on it, to smooth out the surface. The reason that it frosted in the first place is that you used a satin varnish on the clear parts, which does exactly what is says on the tin. The windows were clear glossy when you started, now they are clear satin. It's the same effect as if you had sprayed it on gloss black to get a satin black finish. The only clear that should ever go on clear plastic is clear gloss varnish, of which Klear/Future is the king and the best thing you can use (especially now you can't get it anymore).....
If you tell people where to go, but not how to get there, you'll be amazed at the results. George S. Patton This space is for rent.(Sshhh! Don't tell the Revenue Commissioners, the IMF or the Dept of Finance, or they'll tax my stash!)
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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Speaking from experience, acetone based nail polish remover and clear parts are a disastrous mix.
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 Rank: Can't see the modelling bench Groups: Member
Joined: 9/7/2008 Posts: 276 Points: -2,348 Location: Shannon, Co.Clare, Ireland
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10 11 2011 Well, I DID talk about iso-pro. I wasn't sure if it was exactly the same as the nail polish stuff. So, there you go. Just so I am not misunderstood...keep the nail varnish faaaarrr away from the model. Put in another room. It's evil. Stick to the iso. (still think sanding is the way to go tho.) As for Klear....welll, I have 4 bottles on a shelf in my model room....sooooooooooo......how much money you got in your wallet, kimo sabeh?? Liam
Mesa called Jar-Jar Binks. Mesa your humble servant. I don't know. Mesa day startin pretty okee-day with a brisky morning munchy, then BOOM! Mesa gettin' very very scared!  I am the Rules Police. It's better than being the Thought Police.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 11/29/2010 Posts: 352 Points: 1,071 Location: Kildare
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Thanks for all the advice guys... Nice to know the "why" part also DeBoss...this is how we learn First, I didn't Future it so if I'm reading above right even IPA will effect the clear part. So it's sanding, or just replace the windscreen with some clear plastic.... either way it has to come out first.
Cheers Sean
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 Rank: Beyond The Box Groups: Member
Joined: 9/13/2011 Posts: 78 Points: 234 Location: Ashford, Wicklow
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I agree with Sean, the white looks good from here, but I know how you feel with regards to the fogged screen. I have found that a wipe with IPA and a sand down with decreasing grit works wonders, especially the good stuff from the womens cosmetic section in boots. But I suspect that replacing with a new sheet would be quicker/easier. At least it is flat.
How do you eat an elephant.... ....start at one end and keep chewing. On the bench: 1/24 Airfix Bf109 E OOB 1/24 Trumpeter Hurricane IIc, most definitely not OOB. In the wings: Trumpeter Hurricane MkI, BoB in flight versus Airfix B2 Stuka, 1/24 dogfight double.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 11/29/2010 Posts: 352 Points: 1,071 Location: Kildare
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AndyB wrote:But I suspect that replacing with a new sheet would be quicker/easier.
And this is what I went for....managed to get the ruined "glass" out without breaking off the sun-visors and rear-view mirror and used it as template for some clear plastic sheet which slipped back in perfectly. Pics later today I hope Thanks for all the suggestions, ideas, explanations and encouragement folks! That's what makes this place sooooo good.
Cheers Sean
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 11/29/2010 Posts: 352 Points: 1,071 Location: Kildare
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And the proof:   Finally done!
Cheers Sean
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 Rank: Step away from the computer! Groups: Member
Joined: 11/9/2010 Posts: 194 Points: 591 Location: Dublin
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That worked a treat Sean. Looks great
Pat McGrath
work to become not to acquire
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