Complete beginners question what are the differences? Is there an advantage using one Over the other? I've only heard resin being talked about since I camback to the scene.
Thanks lads

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Barry Evans

Jason
Thanks a million. Very well explained.. Think I might just stickto plastic for a while yet so...

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Barry Evans

Barry

I agree with Jason. There is a world of difference. You know the plastic already - all I can add, as a fellow returnee, is that the quality of much of the plastic now is better than it was in the old days (well, with some of the manufacturers.....).

Resin generally, in my experience (two kits and a lot of aftermarket goodies/add-ons so far!), is much more difficult to do. First of all, the resin has cast blocks, which have to be sawn off (you need a razor saw) and then the parts need to be cleaned up. Where there are smaller pieces, they can be cut out from the surrounding matrix (kinda like a spider's web), or the whole thing can be sanded (eg for cockpit side panels etc) until you just get the bits. Many smaller bits are extremely brittle, so no matter how you do them, they will split/break.....

Second problem is that the dust - when sanding, sawing etc - is toxic to humans (and any pets you might have around). So you need a face mask, or just sand under water water. (Fido has to be put out when working.....as he/she doesn't like a face mask)

Third problem is, as Jason says, that you cannot use the usual glues - revell contacta, tamiya extra thin etcc - you gotta use epoxy or superglue. That means more hassle getting things to fit together.

Fourth problem is you often have minute bubbles on the surface of the resin (especially problematic on wing leading edges) which have to be filled in with a smear (or more) of filler, and then smoothed out with sanding (again needing masks or water)....Then you absolutely HAVE to prime before painting (you can often get away with not priming on plastic kits).

Fifth problem - from my limited experience, is that the fit of resin can be a bit worse than most plastic kits, so you will probably be doing a lot more sanding and filling than with - at least mainstream - plastic kits.

So my honest advice is - unless the model you want to do is only available in resin, go for the plastic model every time, if you are thinking kits rather than additional pieces etc.

However, some resin pieces/correction sets etc, are VERY good, and can liven up an ordinary plastic kit really well. I have lots of kits with resin add-ons, usually (since I do planes) in the cockpit or the wheelwells. I understand our vehicle brethren use a lot more of them. Maybe Pat or Fise, who are acknowledged experts in this area, can give you their experience on those.

Philip

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"To boldly go.....wherever"

Jesus lads fair play for the detailed answers, very very helpful, I think I will stay away from resin then for a while until I have upped my skill/patience level...
Again thanks for taking the time to write such in depth answers

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Barry Evans

Yeah, it's all down to manufacturer. You have some of the classic names, whose products are spotless and details on them are beyond the wildest dreams, but you'd pay top dollar for their sets. Then you have plenty garage manufacturers, where you have to be very careful what you're getting as the quality can be very bad and not worth the money and hard labour, but it could be top class too. So inspect before you drop some change.

For quick introduction to the resin, I would recommend some easy sets, which are made as a direct replacement for the kit parts, like ejection seats or Quickboost line of resin goodies: http://www.quickboost.net/catalogue.htm

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Filip

Well you don't need it- it just makes life easier. I have a one and a half inch scar on my left index finger I got when the craftknife I was using, to seperate a resin figure from it's plug, slipped and sliced through my finger

I mostly use the JLC blade without the handle. They're quite cheap and each side of the blade has a different grade of teeth.

There are other razor saws out there and I used to use a junior hacksaw but I find this one to be the best as it makes a really fine cut and produces the least amount of resin dust.

When you say mini drill saws do you mean the dremel motor tools and similar? - they would work but you should use them at the slowest speed possible to avoid making clouds of dust

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Pat McGrath

work to become not to acquire

The thing is that the resin detail sets are designed around certain kit and as a such they are recommended for that particular kit, but it not necessarily means that they must be used only with that kit.
For example, if you are getting sets/replacement parts for a Hurricane in 1/48 scale you will get sets designed around Hasegawa kit -as this kit was/is the best on offer in that scale - and they will have that 'recommended kit: Hasegawa' clause on the box, but it doesn't mean that it will not fit into Hobbycraft or new Italeri kit. Some modifications to the kit and/or resin parts pending.
Then you can get the generic sets, like ejection seats, engines, gun barrels, wheels, guns and so on intended for universal fit. But! As those are scaled down versions of the real things you must be prepared for an eventuality that they do not fit as snugly into your kit as the original kit part and some radical shaving and thinning of the kit's plastic might be involved to make them fit.

From my own kitchen, I have fitted interior set designed for Dragon StuG IIIC/D into Tamiya StuG IIIB. It did fit with minor changes and, eeeeeh, after a few weeks of work looks spot on. I was backdating the set to suit earlier version of that artillery yoke too, ya know...

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Filip

Have to agree with that! I got a CMK Resin cockpit for the Airfix 1:72 BAe Hawk. It was a cockpit for the exact kit I had, and was still a git to fit!

J.

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On the bench -
Revell 1:72 F-16B

Completed builds
Click here

Coming attractions -
Eduard 1:48 Bf 110 G-4
Academy 1:72 F-22a Raptor
Tamiya 1:35 T-55a
Moebius 1:128 Seaview

Fairy power spray? Now there's a new one. I did read of one guy who had some success using foaming oven cleaner...but i'm not sure it wasn't a wind up, so Ive stuck to sand paper and elbow grease so far.

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How do you eat an elephant....
....start at one end and keep chewing.

On the bench:
1/24 Airfix Bf109 E OOB
1/24 Trumpeter Hurricane IIc, most definitely not OOB.

In the wings:
Trumpeter Hurricane MkI, BoB in flight versus Airfix B2 Stuka, 1/24 dogfight double.

Vinny & all, One small but important thing I omitted from my posting on the Fairy Powerspray, is that I found that some of the smaller parts i.e. the spinner, tail wheel and other small tiny bits tended to come off during the process. So when washing it off, suggest adding water to the bag first, don't worry about the mess, just look for the tiny bits. If possible use a small strainer (from the kitchen when nobody is looking) and strain it out.
Then if you are missing any bits - poke around in the strainer.