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 Rank: Step away from the computer! Groups: Member
Joined: 10/15/2011 Posts: 191 Points: 385 Location: wicklow
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any tips on painting canopies..im about to try to paint the canopy on my lancaster and the amount of lines on a small canopy is unreal...is masking or free handing the only way???
Barry Evans
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 Rank: Jedi Knight modeller Groups: Member
Joined: 11/11/2010 Posts: 102 Points: 115 Location: carlow
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hi there chief. i only do 1/48 but if i am doing a canopy such as one like lancaster or Me110 then i mask the vertical lines first and paint and then mask the horizontal ones next and then paint. i dont use masking fluid as its more time consuming also. i used to hand paint the frames of the canopy but its hit and miss how well it will look. when i go to do my HE111 and kits like that i think i will invest in some pre-cut masks. the 1/72 guys will have more info for you.
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 9/7/2008 Posts: 452 Points: -190 Location: Naas Co Kildare
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chiefwiggum wrote:any tips on painting canopies..im about to try to paint the canopy on my lancaster and the amount of lines on a small canopy is unreal...is masking or free handing the only way??? Barry, With such a big beast (and assuming your Lanc is 1/72, and not 1/48, (which is the scale as Stephen does)). I would advise that free hand painting of 1/72nd scale canopy frames is a recipe for frustration - and a quick journey to the optician... I personally tend to use Tamiya masking tape (in 1/72). This is my technique. First of all. Seal the canopy in Future (f you have the old formula) or your choice of glass varnish. Keep it thin, but cover the canopy. It will prevent a lot of errors becoming fatal. Once the canopy has been sealed (and left for a couple of days to REALLY dry), I then put a large section of the tape on it, covering a side or top at a time, and then buff it down using a cocktail stick or dry biro. I then use a new no. 11 blade to cut away the lines of the frames, which should come up with the buffing, (very carefully - ideally in one cut per side), then use the cocktail stick (not the knife) to remove the bit of cut tape, thus exposing only the frame. Once I have done this for the whole canopy, I spray it, with the interior colour first (in your case Humbrol 78 - interior green - or black,or perhaps in the case of the Luftwaffe RLM 02 or RLM 66), and then, when this is dry, I spray over the exterior colour. I leave to dry for at least a day and then peel off the masking tape, using the cocktail sticks to remove, not the knife (I don't want to scratch the canopy with the knife...you can guess how I know this...) I have tried using Baremetal foil instead of the Tamiya tape, and while it is thinner and easier to work with, it does leave a glue/adhesive residue on the canopy afterwards (which I have been unable to remove - though Paul (ei-ylg) has, I understand, been successful in removing it). Apart from that, there are of course the pre-cut Eduard or Montex masks. I have yet to use them, though I have a couple in the stash for particular projects. I hear that they are really excellent, and considerably reduce the time, and effort, in doing one's own masks with Tamiya tape.... Of course, if you have no airbrush, then using tape, in the manner suggested by Stephen, might just work (with well thinned paint?). Philip (PS: e-mail sent today re membership form)
"To boldly go.....wherever"
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 Rank: Step away from the computer! Groups: Member
Joined: 10/15/2011 Posts: 191 Points: 385 Location: wicklow
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Thanks for the replies so far lads.. It is a 1/72 lanc alright. A 1/48 would be bloody massive. Stephen you must have Plenty of space!!! Yeah it's going to be a tricky little bugger for me all right, lucky enough though Philip my missus is actually an optician as luck would have it ha. I'm going to have a think about it for a few days to weigh up my options but by all means if anyone else has any Pearls of wisdom I'm all ears
Barry Evans
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 Rank: Step away from the computer! Groups: Member
Joined: 10/15/2011 Posts: 191 Points: 385 Location: wicklow
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Philip I got that email today but my bloody printer is fooked.. I'll just paypal you my sub.. Do you need the form info?? If there's anything you must have I can pm you the details
Barry Evans
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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I guess I'm the crazy one because I do paint my canopies free-hand.
Now I have tried using masking fluid but I found that once I peeled the mask off it tugged at the paint on the frames and made a mess of everything. I've never tried using tape as a mask because I'm rather paranoid about gunking up the canopy, even with low tack tape although, to be honest, I've never tried Tamiya tape.
So I paint free hand using a #1 brush, a lot of patience and very thin paint. The thin paint is essential because a #1 brush tends to put the paint on thickly if you're not careful. If you go outside the lines, so to speak, you can use a cocktail stick to gently rub the excess paint away.
You can use the same technique as Philip and paint the interior color first and then paint the exterior colour on top of it to give the impression the interior frame is painted, this is far easier than trying to paint the actual interior frame as most canopies don't have any interior frame detail. I also use the cloth they put into Glasses cases to polish the canopy clear.
I have to admit though that painting free-hand can be quite frustrating and requires a steady hand. I also use a 20 watt Halogen lamp so that I can see better in the dreary days we've been having.
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 Rank: Step away from the computer! Groups: Member
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Many hanks Alcatraz, it's good to hear as many people's view on it as possible. Are you happy with the way your free hand canopies turn out?
Barry Evans
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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A few have been touch and go to be honest as I've being trying to perfect the technique but the latest one, on the P-51 I'm working on, has turned out great. The width of the frames you're working on also play a part on the finish, what are they like on the Lancaster?
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Very small to be honest... Wouldn't it be all so easy if the canopies came prepainted!!!
Barry Evans
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 2/9/2011 Posts: 496 Points: 1,403 Location: Naas
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Well, I brush paint and I swear by Tamiya tape. How I do it really depends on the canopy. If it has well defined frames, I do the same as Philip. Put the tape down, use a cocktail stick to push the tape in well against the edges of the frame, and then gently use a blade to cut along the edges of the frame ( and as the frames are well defined, it's easy to follow them with a blade ). You can then peel that tape away, leaving the tape in the middle covering the 'glass' with the frames exposed for painting. It works really well, might be a little slow at first but with practise it's quite quick. If the frames aren't really that definied, then the slower version is to put a bit of tape onto a cutting board, and use a blade to slice up thin strips, and then apply these thin strips using a tweezers up against each frame, and then fill in the centre with more tape. This is obviously slower, but like I said, I only do it this way if the frames aren't well defined. Either way, once you have the tape on the canopy with the glass covered and the frames exposed, I then do the same as Philip, and paint the interior colour first ( normally two thin coats as paint won't 'grip' onto the un-primed canopy very well the first time ). This ensures that if you look through the closed canopy and can see inside it, it'll look like the inside has been painted the correct interior colour. Once that's dried I then paint the exterior colour ( and this I can normally get away with one coat, depending on the colour ). Then I use a cocktail stick / tweezers to peel away all the tape. The Tamiya tape does not leave residue, and doesn't take the paint with it. If there are any leaks ( like if maybe the tape wasn't fully pushed down with the cocktail stick before painting ) then normally gently scraping at it with a cocktail stick will get rid of any uneven edges etc. Like I said, with practise you get quite quick at it, and there's no way I could freehand paint the frames and get as good a result, with thin straight lines! One other thing. If I'm doing the canopy open ( which I often do ) I tend not to use the trick of painting the interior colour on the outside first, as I don't think that works as well when you can actually see the inside of the open canopy. In that case, I actually mask and paint the inside of the canopy as well ( though I don't have well defined frames to guide the blade inside the canopy, so it tends to be a little bit more freehand masking ). Hope all that helps! The Lancaster is a tough one, so many panes / frames! If they're well definied though, I'd definitely go with Tamiya tape, you could put a strip of it over one section of the canopy and probably cut out several panes from that one strip! Oh, and don't forget that Tamiya tape comes in different thicknesses. I tend to use 6mm, so for some larger canopies ( say 1:48 Jets ) it might be a case of getting a strip of tape and placing it along a frame, and doing that for all four sides and then filling in the centre, so there's less cutting there. But for something like a 1:72 Lancaster or Stuka ( i.e. something with lots of square panes of glass ), you might want thinner tape. It really depends on what you think will work best for you. It's not that expensive and lasts a good while ( I've used two rolls since Jan, and that's about 12 builds! ). Enjoy! :) J. On the bench - Revell 1:72 F-16B
Completed builds Click here
Coming attractions - Eduard 1:48 Bf 110 G-4 Academy 1:72 F-22a Raptor Tamiya 1:35 T-55a Moebius 1:128 Seaview
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 Rank: Jedi Master Groups: Member
Joined: 3/29/2011 Posts: 426 Points: 1,090 Location: Dublin
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For the Lancaster I would have to say go with Jason and Philip on the tape technique, it sounds less painful than free-handing.
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 Rank: Administration Groups: Administration
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Joined: 5/22/2008 Posts: 340 Points: 1,296 Location: in front of the computer
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This should help- just look what came up on the ARC homepage today; http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/201-300/tnt202-masking-Rapasi/00.shtmPuts into pics what the lads are describing above... and is generally how I do it.
If you tell people where to go, but not how to get there, you'll be amazed at the results. George S. Patton This space is for rent.(Sshhh! Don't tell the Revenue Commissioners, the IMF or the Dept of Finance, or they'll tax my stash!)
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I'm doing the same as ^ but using Tamiya tape instead and pushing it around the edges with a toothpick. Brand new blade, steady hand and patience is required. But I have tried some other technique, not original, though, as friend of mine is using it for donkeys years: - On clear sheet of decal paper paint interior colour first, then cover it with exterior colour - Create strips of required width by cutting through the carrier film - Apply those strip as decals over the canopy lines It's not the fastest method and some patience is required, but what you'll get is sharp and crisp frame line. Downside of it is, that you'll see the 'build' up on cross sections of the canopy. From the other hand, anyone seen a real canopy frame?  at the bottom of the page: http://www.bombercommandmuseum.ca/lancfm159.html
Filip
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 Rank: Step away from the computer! Groups: Member
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Thanks for all the info lads... Will keep you updated on my progress/frustration
Barry Evans
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