hi everyone
just wondering what do you all use to weigh down the noses of your models? blue tac in the nose? anything else that can be used?
thanks

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Barry Evans

nice one stephen i have a load of fishing weights in the shed
good man thanks

barry

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Barry Evans

Be careful using blu-tac or something like Plasticine as over time they release oils which will seep through any cracks and stain a paint job from underneath. It has happened with models I build way back in the day. Also, they tend to dry up and can come lose.

I use fishing weights but I don't think they are pure lead. I've read posts on other forums of the dangers of using lead weight and securing them with CA/Super glue. There is a chemical reaction over time and it will literally burst a model open. If you are using lead weight, then it is best to secure them with a good dose PVA glue or 2-part epoxy. DO NOT use any filling putting in your weights.

Actually, just found that web page about using Lead and superglue. Check it out >>here<<

Here's a forum discussing the issue with some helpful tips on how to stop your model from tail-sitting. Check it out!

Basically, you can use nuts, bolts, coins etc... anything that won't rust or corrode and that can be glued in safely and securely. I recently acquired a model (that I didn't build) from a bin and something big was rattling up and down the fuselage. I'm planning on refurbishing it so I sawed it open to find a fully intact screwdriver (with solid plastic handle) covered in masking tape.

You could also try "Liquid Gravity" used for train modelling and can be found in Marks Models. It's basically very small non-toxic metal shot that can be poured into small areas and fixed with PVA glue. George will probably be able to tell you what it's mainly used for... ballast on rolling stock I think. Here's a link to it on the Marks Models website.
(edit: just noticed Paul mentioned this product while I was typing. Looks like he can vouch for its use as a good weight option.)

I picked up a cheaper version of Liquid Gravity at Telford from Little Cars. Unfortunately they don't have a shopping website as they carry some great detailing products. You can check their stock at www.little-cars.co.uk. The product I bought was called Fluid Steel and this was a 200G bottle os 2mm steel shot for £3.

Hope you can find some useful information in the above.

Vinny

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"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."
-Albert Einstein

Hi Guys,

This question has been well answered but I just thought I'd mention the fishing weights are called Swan Shot and come in a variety of sizes - handy for squeazing into tight places.
Instead of gluing them in place why not use Tank Tape.

Don.

@Philip: I haven't used blu-tac/pritt-tac (white stuff) myself on a model but I've noticed that, after a few years on posters and walls, it can either go very hard or turn gummy... either way it leaves stains in the wall paint and posters so I'm guessing it may not be a good idea for modelling as it's obviously releasing something. I also read your query about matt RLM paint but you edited your post. I definitely think an oily discharge from Plasticine would look worse on a RLM matt finish. I have used Plasticine for airliners when I was younger and it dried up inside the model. On one particular model, I built it and fixed the weight with Plasticine... then I left it. After I can back into the hobby, after ten or so years, I decided to finish it. The white plastic had gone a brownish yellow around the nose seam and, even after multiple cleaning sessions, paint would not stick to the surface in that area. Which lead me to believe the Plasticine was at fault and every time I washed the model it was releasing more oil. Well to fix the problem the nose had to be cut off and everything inside cleared and cleaned out. All went well after that. So to answer your question, it possibly could affect a white airliner after time but maybe the gloss enamel (as it's oil based I think) may act as a barrier but I think it would definitely show up on RLM matt as a stain... a bit like grease on brown paper. The safest thing to do is not to use it

Vinny

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"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."
-Albert Einstein

What about milliput? Use some of this stuff as a carrier for the lead - or whatever - weight? It sticks like a glue dries rock solid and shouldn't cause any harm over time?

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Filip

Yeah, I don't see any reason why Milliput can't be used to weigh down models. It doesn't affect the plastic like model and car fillers. I'm guessing mixing the two parts of Milliput causes a chemical reaction to harden it and it dries out to be a very strong and weighty substance. The important point here is that it dries out. The problem with things like Plasticine and Blu-tac is that they're designed not to dry out and this is where the issue is as whatever is keeping them moist (maybe a synthetic or natural oil) will leave a residue on the model. I wash my models quite a lot during the stages of the building process so I would definitely stay clear of anything that may react with cleaning liquids and cause oils to seep out. That's just me, if Blu-tac works for others and they don't see any residue then who am I to argue with them. All I can go by is my past experience. Whatever works and is convienient I suppose.

@Philip: Ah respect must be given to those of us who step up to build airline models... many a military modeller has cracked under the pressure of getting a gloss white finish.

Vinny

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"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."
-Albert Einstein