The Kit
Gavia's Lysander kits are not new on the market
and I think, it has been written a lot about them.
This product is the first main-stream injection
moulded kit of this aircraft in 1:48 scale after
30-or-so years. Generally, the parts are nicely
done, with no flashes and almost invisible form
separation line. The light grey plastic, which
Gavia used, is very "user friendly",
not too hard, not too soft. Just enough to sand
it or cut it. Small parts are well executed as
well, which is not so common thing in new companies,
although there is some lack of this sharpness
we can see in "big boys" boxes (Tamiya,
Dragon, Hasegawa). Some inexperience in technological
matters can be seen on this kit as well -thickness
of fuselage walls and, mainly, on canopy clear
parts. If you decided to sand them down, or replace
them, it's totally up to you. I left 'em like
they are and it doesn't look too bad... And of
course, in box you find very good decal sheet
of quality typical for most of Czech manufacturers
of to-days.
Building Process - interior
Interior
of the kit is made up from quite a few parts.
There is a frame tubing with seats, dash board,
radio equipment, petrol tank and rear floor, added
on to it, which, after assembly sits into fuselage
halves. I added few copper wires to simulate cables
leading inside the cockpits and glued wires from
the back of the gauges of the dash board. I added
a few details on pilot's seat, like rudder pedals
adjusting mechanism, reworked face of dash board
and detailed radio operator - gunner's "office".
After painting and weathering of separate parts
I have finally put all interior bits together.
I used excellent 4+ Publication on Lysander (ISBN
80-902559-1-4), extensively during this project,
and, as usual, there is all what modeller needs
to build and super-detail his kit.
 Dash
board, on the left, with some detailing work already
done and, on the right, finished and painted interior
frame structure with dash board, seats, fuse boxes
and some wires added. There are still few bits
missing, most noticeably petrol tank, which sits
in the empty space under wing cross section. But
these are added later on in the building process
without any problems...
Building Process - exterior
I
wanted to build Lysander Mk.II instead of Mk.III,
so I have to make some changes. The most obvious
difference is shorter engine cowling without blister
fairings on it and older design of rear canopy
opening. This is not too difficult to repair,
all you need is just few minutes to cut triangular
windows off the kit's rear sliding canopy and
cut the same ones from clear plastic sheet and
glue them on clear side panels. And sand down
parts of fuselage halves, to accommodate this.
To alternate engine cowling is easy task, as well.
Just shave off all the fairings on the cowling
and take about 1mmm off just in front of cooling
gills. After all this was done, I made new gills
from plastic sheet in open position.
Probably at this point I have decided to rebuild
engine. Lysanders Mk.II had Bristol Perseus XII
built in, instead of Pegasus which was Mk's. I
& III power plant... I, basically, scratch
built whole unit. I used some plastic bits and
pieces for main engine body and 4mm diameter rods
for valves. This task took the most of the time
I spent on Lysander kit. As I don't have the ability
of casting my own resin parts, so every valve
was carved by hand, using electric drill and scalpel
tip. I even gave up once... Engine, I ended up
at the end, is probably not a perfect copy of
original, but I am more than happy with it and
it looks differently from Mk.III power plant and
that's important. The rest of building process
was very simple task, although those "V"
shaped wing support struts needs to be lengthened.
2mm each will keep wings in right position. Because
model is painted in sub-assemblies everything
must be adjusted and dry fitted very carefully,
before first coat of paint is applied.
Painting Process
Painting
process started not after masking of canopy. Tamiya
masking tape is excellent for this task. I resprayed
whole thing with Humbrol No.1, gray basecoat.
After one day of drying time Humbrol 29, Dark
Earth and 30, Dark Green. Under surfaces are painted
in Aluminium, mix of 56 and 191. All marking is
sprayed on using plotter cut masks. Stencils and
1st Fighter Squadron logos are decals from the
kit decal sheet and Max Decals, respectively.
I haven't use any preshading technique, but I
sprayed different shades of basic colours, layer
after layer, darker and lighter as I pleased.
Then, some oil washes and dry pastels were used.
I sealed everything with help of Humbrol Satin
Cote. To make paint work more weathered, I masked
off all metal and plywood areas and oversprayed
"fabric" with few coats of Humbrol Matt
Cote.
Finished Model
This model represents No.62 of Irish Air Corps
as it looked before 1942 colour scheme changes.
But I made some mistakes. I had no pictures of
starboard sides of any of I.A.C. Lysanders so
I wrongly applied fuselage boss orange right -
green left. It should be the opposite way, or
simply: green always forward. As well, wing tricolours
should be moved more to the wing tips. I am not
quite sure about top surfaces, though. And…this
twin Browning machine gun... I knew that this
gun was never used in "green" aircrafts,
but I think, that looks great and fits into observer's
cockpit nicely. Oh yea, and this is one of Aires
lovely little jewels, Browning M1 (4179).
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